A Guide to Art Nouveau Jewellery

 Art Nouveau was an international artistic movement that influenced architecture, fashion, and the decorative arts and was popular between 1890 and the outbreak of the First World War. The movement was characterised by its embrace of natural forms and structures, particularly the curved lines of plants and flowers. In many ways, Art Nouveau was a reaction against the industrial production of the 19th century, seeking to revive good craftsmanship and elevate the status of the decorative arts, as exemplified by the British Arts and Crafts movement.

^{Carved opal and ruby necklace in 18ct gold}

^{Sold for £3,600}

The Art Nouveau jewellery movement was spearheaded by jewellers in France such as Chaumet, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels, who created some of the most iconic pieces of the era, along with contemporaries like Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States and Liberty & Co. in England. The wealthy and the famous flocked to buy the distinctive, avant-garde pieces with sweeping, organic lines, and use of natural motifs, including the stylised female form. The natural world was a key inspiration with an emphasis on vine tendrils, dragonflies with their heavily veined and iridescent wings, and blooms of iris, lily, and orchids.

While the effect was sensual and mystical, symbolism was also prevalent in Art Nouveau jewellery, with designs often carrying deeper meanings or associations. For instance, the peacock, a recurring motif, symbolised beauty, and immortality.

While traditional precious stones and metals were used, Art Nouveau jewellers often experimented with new materials such as enamel, glass, and semi-precious stones. Plique-à-jour enamel, which creates a stained-glass effect, was a particularly popular technique, along with cloisonne, guilloche and champleve, enabling the jewellers to replicate the colours of the fantastical worlds they created. Traditional ‘precious’ gems were used to highlight the designs rather than form the main event on the brooches, festoon necklaces, sautoir necklaces, rings, and earrings.

^{Art Nouveau white metal and enamel necklace}

^{Sold for £2,400}

Art Nouveau jewellery has remained highly desirable among collectors due to its unique aesthetic, while the cyclical nature of fashion has imbued pieces with a timeless quality.

Pieces by renowned jewellers like René Lalique or Louis Comfort Tiffany are especially sought after and can command high prices at auctions. Authenticity and provenance are crucial and so original pieces with documented history are particularly valued. Due to the short period of production combined with the steer away from mass manufacture at the time, genuine pieces of Art Nouveau jewellery are relatively rare and highly sought after in a market saturated with reproduction.

If you are thinking of selling any Art Nouveau jewellery, it is essential to have it assessed by experts.

^{Henri Dubret - an Art Nouveau gem-set foliage panel ring}

^{Sold for £4,200}

Here at Dawsons, we have many years of experience in successfully selling Art Nouveau jewellery at auction. Our gemmology qualified and highly skilled valuers would be delighted to provide a complimentary valuation at our London valuation office, or our Berkshire showroom to establish suitability for our monthly sales. Once consigned, our bespoke in-house marketing can reach a global audience of up to 10 million buyers.

Recent successes include a Henri Dubret ring, which reached £4200 (2024), and a gem-set floral lavaliere necklace, which fetched £2000 (2024).

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Are you considering parting with any Art Nouveau jewellery?

With a global audience of more than 10 million known bidders, Dawsons can secure the highest prices.

Get in touch with an expert Valuer for confidential sales advice, we would be delighted to help you:

0207 431 9445 / info@dawsonsauctions.co.uk