Symbolism in Jewellery

For thousands of years, jewellery has been more than a decorative accessory. As well as objects of beauty, jewellery carries profound symbolism, reflecting culture, status, spirituality, and personal expression.

In ancient Egypt, jewellery was intertwined with spirituality and the afterlife. Gold was buried with people of status to ensure their safe passage to eternity. Similarly, turquoise and lapis lazuli were symbols of protection and divine favour. In ancient China, jade was prized as a stone embodying purity, wisdom, and morality and was often worn as a talisman.

^{Cartier Kashmir sapphire and diamond flower brooch}

^{Sold for £340,000}

In medieval Europe, jewellery often reflected social status and religious devotion. Signet rings, for instance, conveyed authority, while crosses and other religious symbols symbolised reverence and piety. During the Renaissance, intricate enamelled pieces carried allegorical meanings, blending mythological references with personal statements. From the ancient amulets worn to ward off evil, the symbolism in jewellery adds another dimension to the beauty and craftsmanship of antique pieces.

The materials used in jewellery are often imbued with specific symbolism. Precious stones like diamonds signify endurance and eternal love, making them a popular choice for engagement rings. Gemstones can signify the wearer's birth month, while pearls, with their natural lustre, are associated with purity and wisdom. Gold represents wealth, immortality, and divinity. Some materials possess cultural nuances. For example, coral, particularly in Mediterranean traditions, is linked to health and vitality and is often worn to shield against illness.

^{Victorian Kashmir Sapphire and diamond cluster hinged bangle}

^{Sold for £70,000}

Symbolism in jewellery was particularly fashionable in the Victorian era. Queen Victoria's engagement ring from Prince Albert featured a serpent motif, a popular design choice at the time, symbolising eternal love and wisdom. Mourning jewellery, hugely popular with the Victorians, often included jet or hair from a deceased loved one, serving as a poignant reminder of loss and the fleeting nature of life. Secret messages were symbolised in the choice of the gemstone used. For example, the word 'ADORE' would be spelt out in jewellery using Amethyst, Diamond, Opal, Ruby, and Emerald.

Colour can also have enormous symbolism. The Suffragette movement of the early 20th Century used the colours green for hope, white for purity and violet or purple for loyalty and dignity in ribbons and gemstones to signify solidarity with their movement.

Jewellery symbolism varies widely across cultures. In Indian tradition, the mangal sutra, a necklace married women wear, signifies marital commitment and auspiciousness. However, there are symbols that transcend cultural and religious differences. The Hamsa Hand, a protective symbol, is also known as the Hand of Fatima, the Hand of Miriam, and the Hand of Mother Mary, according to the faith of the wearer.

^{Diamond three-stone Kutchinsky ring}

^{Sold for £51,000}

The symbolism in jewellery conveys an often complex but highly personal message about the wearer. It tells a story that takes antique jewellery beyond the aesthetic value of the piece and the materials used. Our expert team here at Dawsons can help interpret the symbolism of your pre-loved jewellery, whilst our in-house marketing team will market the piece to a vast global audience, in order to ensure that bidding is competitive, and achieving the best prices for our clients at auction.

READ MORE

What Does a Tiara Symbolise?

How Can You Tell if Jewellery is Fine?

Are Jewellery Valuations Free?

Nicky Houston

Our Head of Department - Jewellery, Silver & Watches... Nicky is a highly respected Auctioneer & Valuer, who had dreams of becoming an artist. Whilst she may not have made it as a successful artist herself, Nicky has helped many a customer to successfully sell and buy beautiful pieces of jewellery and works of art over her many years working within the auction industry.

 

Jewellery Silver & Objects of Virtue Watches

Are you considering selling any potentially symbolic jewellery?

Dawsons can access a global audience of more than 10 million known bidders, and secure the best price.

Contact an expert Jewellery Valuer today for confidential sales advice, we would be delighted to help:

info@dawsonsauctions.co.uk / 0207 431 9445