What Does a Tiara Symbolise?

Tiaras peaked in opulence and popularity during the European and Russian aristocracy's reign

17/06/2025    

The tiara has long signified both royalty and personal distinction. Described by Vogue as “the exclusive and glittering symbol of the establishment", the tiara's origins trace back to ancient Greece and Rome, where they were worn as laurel wreaths or diadems to signify victory, divinity, or leadership. The tradition evolved over centuries, transitioning from wreath-like forms to ornate jewelled headpieces that fitted halfway around the head.

By the 18th and 19th centuries, tiaras peaked in opulence and popularity during the European and Russian aristocracy's reign. They were often made with diamonds, pearls, and other gemstones and were worn to signify wealth, lineage, and prestige. Tiaras became fixtures at grand occasions such as coronations, balls, weddings, and diplomatic events, solidifying their place as symbols of ceremonial importance. And where royalty leads in fashion, the wealthy and powerful will soon follow, commissioning elaborate and opulent pieces from high society jewellers such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels.

 

Late 19th / early 20th century diamond tiara

Sold for £12,500

 

Tiaras come in various styles, reflecting different fashions and cultural influences. For example, Kokoshnik tiaras were inspired by Russian folk headdresses and featured broad, structured bands. In contrast, Aigrette tiaras were adorned with feather-like motifs, popular in the Art Nouveau and Edwardian periods, and embraced softer lines inspired by nature.

While this opulent and costly jewellery was intended for formal events, many tiaras were designed to transform into necklaces, brooches, or bracelets. This versatility is desirable to collectors today when opportunities to wear one's tiara might be scarce.

Certain tiaras have acquired iconic status, from Empress Josephine's 1804 Coronation Tiara, which set the tone for essential court attire, to Queen Elizabeth II's "Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara," with its delicate diamond scroll motif. This tiara remains one of the most recognisable royal jewels. Another celebrated royal piece is the Cambridge Lover's Knot Tiara, originally owned by Queen Mary, famously worn by Princess Diana and, most recently, Catherine, Princess of Wales.

 

Early Victorian pink topaz tiara hair piece

Sold for £4,800

 

Today, tiaras are predominantly worn at state events and weddings, providing a helpful fixture for a wedding veil. As a fashionable accessory, Beyoncé's Lorraine Schwartz diamond tiara, worn at the 2008 Oscars, is a testament to the enduring aesthetic appeal of these astonishing pieces.

Antique jewellery is cherished for its exceptional craftsmanship, provenance, and rarity. Provenance is desirable for antique jewellery collectors and not more so than tiaras, where collectors are impressed with royal or aristocratic heritage or links to significant events, dramatically increasing the value. It should also be noted that tiaras were often passed down through generations and altered to the day's fashions. Unfortunately, after World War 2, when fashion had become more relaxed, antique heirloom tiaras were frequently regarded as obsolete luxuries. They were broken up to be repurposed or distributed as inheritance; therefore, intact antique examples are rare.

 

 

Diamond tiara convertible to fringe necklace

Sold for £2,800 

 

If you are considering selling a tiara, the highly skilled and gemmology qualified team of valuers at Dawsons would be delighted to provide a complimentary valuation and confidential sales advice. Whilst our in-house marketing team can directly target a vast global audience of known buyers, which will ensure that we can achieve the highest possible return for your tiara.

 

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Nicky Houston

Nicky Houston

Our Head of Department - Jewellery, Silver & Watches... Nicky is a highly respected Auctioneer & Valuer, who had dreams of becoming an artist. Whilst she may not have made it as a successful artist herself, Nicky has helped many a customer to successfully sell and buy beautiful pieces of jewellery and works of art over her many years working within the auction industry.

 

Jewellery Silver & Objects of Virtue Watches

 

 

Are you considering selling a tiara?

Dawsons can access a global audience of more than 10 million known bidders, and secure the best price.

Contact an expert Jewellery Valuer today for confidential sales advice, we would be delighted to help:

info@dawsonsauctions.co.uk / 0207 431 9445