A Guide to Van Cleef & Arpels Jewellery
Several designs and collections have defined the legacy of Van Cleef & Arpels.
11/07/2025
Van Cleef & Arpels was founded in 1906 by Alfred Van Cleef and his uncle, Salomon Arpels, in Paris. Over the last 120 years, the House has been synonymous with innovation, elegance, and exquisite craftsmanship.
A significant milestone in the brand's history occurred in 1933 when Van Cleef & Arpels patented the "Mystery Set" technique. This ground-breaking method allows gemstones to be set without visible prongs, creating a seamless expanse of colour. This innovation not only elevated the brand's reputation but also established it as a leader in jewellery design.
Over the decades, Van Cleef & Arpels has created numerous legendary pieces, including the "Ballerina" brooches and the "Cadenas" bracelet-watch.
Van Cleef & Arpels - A floral spray brooch set with diamonds
However, several designs and collections have defined the legacy of Van Cleef & Arpels. The "Alhambra" collection, introduced in 1968, is perhaps the most iconic of all. Inspired by the four-leaf clover, the Alhambra motif symbolises luck, health, fortune, and love. Its timeless appeal has made it a favourite among celebrities and royalty – From Grace Kelly to the Princess of Wales and from Elizabeth Taylor to Anne Hathaway – the enduring appeal of the collection continues today.
Another pivotal moment came with the creation of the "Zip" necklace in the 1950s. Described by Vogue magazine as 'a perfect union of jewellery and couture', it is thought that the necklace was inspired by the Duchess of Windsor, doyenne of taste and elegance. This clever design can be worn both as a necklace and a bracelet, showcasing versatility and innovation. Often taking more than 600 hours to create, they are very rare, both in new and pre-loved condition.
Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery remains highly collectable due to its rich heritage, exceptional craftsmanship, innovative designs, and enduring popularity. The rarity and provenance of vintage Van Cleef & Arpels pieces add to their allure. The brand's reputation for using the highest quality gemstones and meticulous attention to detail further enhances its desirability.
A Van Cleef and Arpels alhambra diamond bracelet
Dawsons Auctioneers have become a reputable and trusted name in the world of fine jewellery auctions. Our team’s expertise in identifying and valuing high-quality pieces ensures that collectors and buyers can acquire the timeless elegance of Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery with confidence.
Dawsons’ fine jewellery sales often feature rare and vintage items that are difficult to find elsewhere. Our knowledgeable staff endeavour to make the buying process both enjoyable and transparent. Additionally, the competitive nature of auctions can offer buyers the opportunity to purchase exceptional pieces at attractive prices.
Van Cleef & Arpels - a boxed diamond dress set, comprising cufflinks, buttons and shirt studs
If you are looking to sell your pre-loved Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery, Dawsons in-house marketing team will dynamically market pieces to a global audience of over 10 million potential buyers to secure the highest prices for our clients.
Recent successes at our monthly jewellery sales include a pair of Alhambra earrings set with mother of pearl, which sold for £2400 (April 2025), and a pair of diamond-set hoop earrings in 18ct yellow gold, of twisted rope design, set with brilliant-cut diamonds, which sold for £3500 (November 2024).
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