How Can You Tell if a Pocket Watch is Good Quality?

From Pope Pius IX to Sherlock Holmes, from Salvador Dalí's The Persistence of Memory to Peaky Blinders, pocket watches are woven into history, art, literature, and film. Once an essential accessory for gentlemen and ladies alike, they remain a symbol of timeless elegance and exquisite craftsmanship. Today, collectors and enthusiasts seek out quality pocket watches not just for their aesthetic appeal, but also for their potential as valuable investments. Understanding how to assess the quality of a pocket watch and what influences its resale value is essential for anyone interested in buying or selling these fascinating vintage timepieces.

^{A fine Montres Niton Genève open-face Jump hour pocket watch}

^{Sold for £8,500}

First amongst the issues to consider is the watch's movement or internal mechanism. High-quality pocket watches typically have hand-wound or automatic movements, rather than quartz, which denotes a watch made after 1969. Although quartz enables precision and low maintenance, it can lack the authenticity of a traditional pocket watch. Movements with a high jewel count can also indicate quality. Jewels have been used in watchmaking since the early 1700s to reduce friction and wear. Swiss and English movements are particularly prized for their precision and craftsmanship.

Quality pocket watches are crafted from durable, precious materials. Solid gold, silver, or platinum cases are hallmarks of luxury, while stainless steel can also indicate a robust, well-made watch. Watches with cases made from base metals such as brass or copper can be cheaper to produce and difficult to spot if plated with a precious metal.

^{Tiffany & Co - A Rare and Fine Skeletonised Pocket Watch}

^{Sold for £5,000}

Another indicator is the craftsmanship of the pocket watch. Dials, hands, and cases should be finely machined with no rough edges or misaligned components. Details such as hand-engraved patterns, enamel dials, and finely machined cases suggest superior quality.

Finally, the brand or maker will be pivotal in establishing the watch's quality. Esteemed watchmakers such as Patek Philippe, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, and Longines are synonymous with quality construction and premium materials. Pocket watches from brands with a pedigree reputation, especially those with documented provenance, are highly sought after by collectors and typically retain or appreciate in value.

^{A Fine and Rare Cartier 18k Minute Repeater Open Faced Pocket Watch}

^{Sold for £17,000}

Ultimately, the resale value of a pocket watch depends on a combination of the factors above, as well as rarity, condition, age, provenance, and market trends. Limited edition pieces with rare complications will command higher prices, while original, unrestored pieces with clear markings and a functioning movement are also highly desirable.

However, if you are considering selling your pre-loved pocket watch, it is advisable to consult a trusted expert in the field to assess its quality and help you make an informed decision about parting with it. The experienced team at Dawsons Auctioneers have successfully been helping our clients to market and sell pocket watches for many years, and we would be delighted to offer you a complimentary valuation, either in person at our Hamstead office or Maidenhead showroom, or indeed, online.

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Buy or Sell Pocket Watches with Dawsons

Our team of experts make it simple to sell your pocket watch online or buy fine pocket watches at auction. Dawsons Auctioneers provide accurate valuations, competitive results, and trusted advice every step of the way. Get in touch today to find out what your watch is worth.

Call us on 0207 431 9445 or email us on info@dawsonsauctions.co.uk